Load Bar Guide: Keep Freight From Sliding in Your Trailer
Load Bar Guide
Half a trailer of pallets can be harder to haul than a full one. With empty space behind the freight, every stop and turn lets the pallets slide. Boxes tip, goods get crushed, and the back door can be a dangerous place to open.
A load bar fixes that. It braces from wall to wall and holds the freight where you put it. This guide explains how it works, the main types, and how to use one the right way.
In This Guide
What Is a Load Bar?
It is a long, strong bar that fits across the inside of a trailer or box truck. You set it right behind the cargo and lock it in place against both walls. The pressure on the walls holds the bar still, and the bar holds the freight.
Other names: You may hear it called a cargo bar, a shoring bar, or a jack bar. They all do the same job.
Why Use One?
- It stops pallets and boxes from sliding back when you brake or climb a hill.
- It keeps freight from falling out when the doors open.
- It lets you split a trailer into sections for stops at different places.
- It is quick. Most bars go in and come out in seconds.
- It needs no tools and no anchor points in many trailers.
Main Types
Ratcheting Bars
These have a ratchet handle in the middle. You set the bar in place, then pump the handle to push the ends out hard against the walls. They grip tight and are easy to release. This is the most popular style. See the adjustable ratcheting cargo bar.
Jack Style Bars
These use a lever and a screw to push the ends out. You flip the lever to lock it. They are simple and strong, but they can take a little more effort to set.
Track Bars
Some bars are made to lock into E-track or L-track rails instead of pressing on the walls. The ends click into the rail, so the bar cannot slip even on a smooth wall. They are often called shoring beams or decking beams. If your trailer has track, this is the best choice.
Steel or Aluminum
Steel bars are strong and cost less, but they are heavy. Aluminum bars are light and do not rust, so they are easier to carry and move.
How to Pick the Right Size
Most bars adjust in length. Measure the inside width of your trailer, wall to wall, at the height where the bar will go.
- Box trucks and small trailers are narrower than a full-size semi trailer.
- Standard dry van trailers are close to 100 inches wide on the inside, but this can change by model.
- Pick a bar whose length range covers your width with room to spare on both ends.
- If you use the bar to brace from floor to ceiling instead, measure the inside height too.
How to Install a Load Bar
- Push the freight forward. Move it as tight as you can toward the front or against the last row of cargo.
- Hold the bar level. Set it right behind the freight, at about the middle height of the load, or just above the pallet tops.
- Extend the ends. Slide the bar out until both rubber feet touch the walls.
- Tighten it. Pump the ratchet or flip the lever until the bar feels solid.
- Shake it. Pull on the bar. It should not move at all.
- Add more if needed. Tall or heavy freight may need two bars, one low and one high.
To take it out, release the ratchet or lever, then pull the bar free. Keep your hand clear of the pinch points.
Load Bars and Straps Work Together
A bar is great at stopping freight from sliding back. It is not as good at holding freight down or stopping side movement. For many loads, the best setup is a bar plus straps.
Logistic straps, E-track straps, and ratchet straps all add hold. If your trailer has L-track, you can lock fittings into the rail and run straps around the freight. See the Safe & Tie double L channel track for adding anchor points, and the straps collection for straps.
Tips for Better Results
Place the bar on the trailer posts, not between them, if the walls are thin.
Keep the rubber feet clean so they grip well.
Use a moving blanket between the bar and soft freight to avoid dents. The 12-pack of heavy duty moving blankets works well for this.
Check the bar at your first stop. Freight settles and bars can loosen.
Do not use a bar on the outside of a flatbed. It is made for closed trailers and trucks.
Common Mistakes
- Setting the bar too low, so tall boxes tip over it.
- Leaving a gap between the bar and the freight.
- Using one bar for a heavy, tall load that needs two.
- Using a bar with worn or missing rubber feet.
- Pressing hard on thin side panels, which can bend them.
Care and Storage
- Wipe off dirt and grease from the ends.
- Oil the ratchet or lever now and then.
- Check the feet and replace them when worn.
- Store the bar on wall hooks or brackets so it does not slide around the trailer.
Final Thoughts
A load bar is a quick, low-cost way to keep freight from sliding inside a trailer or box truck. Pick a ratcheting bar for most jobs, or a track bar if your trailer has rails. Measure the width, set the bar tight behind the freight, and add straps when the load needs more hold. Your freight will arrive in the same shape it left.
Stop Freight From Sliding
Shop the adjustable ratcheting cargo bar and E-track straps at Safe & Tie.
Shop Cargo BarFrequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a load bar and a shoring beam?
A load bar usually presses against the walls. A shoring beam locks into E-track or L-track rails. Both stop cargo from sliding.
How many bars do I need?
One bar works for many short loads. Tall, heavy, or loose freight may need two bars, one low and one high.
Can I use a load bar on a pickup?
Yes, some bars are made for pickup beds. They help keep small items from sliding to the tailgate.
Will it damage my trailer walls?
Not when used right. Set it on wall posts if you can, and do not crank it so hard that the walls bend.
Does a load bar replace straps?
Not always. It stops sliding back, but straps add hold against tipping and side movement.